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Thistle Hill Shelter to Hanover, NH

Day 27
Saturday, May 27, 2017
Thistle Hill Shelter to Hanover, NH
14.1 Miles

Our last day! The rain has stopped and should be a sunny, warm day for a change.  We left the shelter at 6:30 ready to get'er done. We are looking forward to a less strenuous day with mostly downhill except for a steep climb up to Podunk Road out of West Hartford and more uphill to Happy Hill Shelter. After that, downhill all the way, baby!

As it turned out, it was a pretty miserable day for me. I couldn't get the concrete feeling out of legs and the more we went uphill the worse it got. I began to hurt all over, my back, my shoulders, my legs were aching. But my feet were okay for a change- I am thankful for that. The rotation of Aleve and Tylenol (plus a lot of prayer) has worked to keep that pain down the last few days. If only I could get the rest of my body to cooperate, we could finish up in good style.

The two fellows at the shelter last night told us about West Hartford, how it was the hiker -friendliest little town with AT signs on a lot of the houses, water spigots available all along, trail magic all along and the guy at the school who ran out with a big hunk of cheese and bread. I was looking forward to that reward by the time we got there. So we came out on the road and were standing there figuring out which way to go when a gentleman in a car stopped and talked with us and told us about how the trail went through town. That's a good start.

As we made our way through town though, there was no sign of hiker-friendly people, trail magic or cafeteria man. We didn't even see a school. The only store in town was closed down. Disappointed, we sat down on a concrete slab outside of town and ate our own snack before crossing under I-89 and heading back into the woods. I was a little depressed at that point. West Hartford let us down. Maybe it was the time of day, we came through in the morning--the other guys in the afternoon.

We were now looking forward to getting over the last hill and the long gradual decline on the other side. Going uphill got harder and harder for me as the day wore on. Wait-up was way ahead; I was lagging way behind, just trying to put one foot in front of the other.

Mosquitoes as big as small airplanes made it impossible to stay still for long though. They were relentless. You can't even wave them off, you have to literally wipe them off your skin. They stick like glue and try to get into every opening on your head. They got on my eyelids and hung on tight with me batting my eyes furiously trying to shake them. Once while wiping them out of my eyes, I stepped on a slick root and down I went on my backside.

At one point I begged for just a short break and fell out on the ground just exhausted saying, "I give up, mosquitoes, just take me." We had been listening to a message by Keith Moore as we walked and just as I was lying back on the ground trying to talk myself into getting up he said, "Quit being a baby! Just because you feel yucky doesn't mean you have to think yucky or talk yucky or act yucky." I immediately said to the iPod, "Shut up, Keith Moore, I didn't ask for your opinion right now!" He said back to me, "Spiritual people can feel yucky and shout hallelujah! Spiritual people may feel weak but they stand up and say,  “let the weak say I am strong!" How timely was that? It was good for a laugh and a boost of faith that I needed right then.  I got up
and trudged on.

Then we came to a stream with no footbridge or stepping stones. I thought we were through with that. But no! Having put on dry socks this morning and my feet being somewhat dry inside my wet boots, I was not going to wade that stream with my boots on. So we took off our boots and waded across. At least it was not raging water like the last one.

We got to the powerline before making our final .6 descent into Norwich, Vermont and sat down to have a snack. By that time, I was feeling like I had been run over by a train. As I sat there trying to eat some jelly beans to get that sugar high, I started feeling nauseous. The feeling got worse and worse and I was feeling so bad until I was literally lying in the trail with my head on my arms. I tried  a couple of times to get up and go but just could not. I was still nauseous and dizzy and feeling faint.

About that time, a father and son came along that we had passed as they went up the trail for a day hike. They were headed back down in our direction. Thank the Lord, they stopped for a conversation this time. I finally asked them if they were parked at the bottom and they said they were and asked if I needed help. As bad as I hated to admit it, I said that I thought I would need some help getting down.
 
The young man offered to take my pack (praise the Lord!) and we all started down the last decline with Wait-up almost literally holding me up. We made good time in spite of all this, and by the time we got to their vehicle, I was feeling a little better and able to walk alone.

From this point on to Hanover, New Hampshire the trail is a road walk. Although they offered to take us to our parked vehicle, I insisted that I wanted to walk across the Connecticut River bridge and the state line to complete our three-state hike.  We asked them to drive us to the closest store on the trail so we could get a soda and we would take it from there.  They took is to Dan and Whit's General Store on Main Street, skipping the one mile walk down Elm Street. Dan and Whit's claims, "If we don't have it, you don't need it," and I believe it. It is a 3-story old wooden building crammed full of everything imaginable--food, clothing, hardware, deli--I mean everything! All we needed was a coke. As we sat on the bench outside sipping it, I began to get my strength back and finally felt like I could go on. As I went around to the side of the store in search of the bathroom, I discovered a little window where they were selling soft-serve ice cream. Before heading off down main street, we treated ourselves to a huge twist cone for $3 each.

On our way out of the parking lot, a man drove up beside us and asked where we were from.  He told us he was a trail angel and had hosted over 600 hikers in his home and offered us a place to stay if we needed it. Fortunately, we did not but it's good to know that there are local trail angels for thru-hikers. Supposedly there is a list of them at the Norwich Library.

We walked down Main Street in Norwich .9 of a mile to the  Connecticut River Bridge and across the imaginary Vermont/New Hampshire line. That's as far as I had any desire to go. I sat down on a stone wall beside the street with our backpacks and Wait-up walked on through Hanover to our truck. So he made up for the mile we didn't walk, but I didn't and I didn't even care. In a little while, he drove up, I got in the truck and we said "Hallelujah, we are done!"

This section was 291.2 miles long, we started on May 1 and finished on May 27.  We hiked 22 days and took 5 zero days, an average of 13.2 miles per day.

Right now, I don't even want to talk about next time--New Hampshire and Maine, the Whites, the hundred mile wilderness or Katahdin. It all sounds too hard to even imagine. Vermont was hard enough for me.



P.S.  I lost both my big toenails after returning home.  They got bruised the first few days of mountain climbing and did not recover from the trauma. 











 
 

















 




 

The Lookout to Thistle Hill Shelter

Day 26
Friday, May 26, 2017
The Lookout to Thistle Hill Shelter
14.1 Miles
7:00 to 5:00

Billy Goat got out before we did this morning but we were close behind him and got on the trail at 7:00.  I perused the profile before leaving the shelter and saw several steep little climbs ahead of us.  The two fellows commented that it would be a much easier day today though, so I was hoping.  We found that they were pretty steep but luckily, not too tall.

It was a long, hard day.  No place to sit and rest, when we stop we get cold.  I’m so wet, when I put my arms down water runs down my sleeve and drips off, when I put my arms up on my trekking poles water runs backward into my sleeve. Dang rain gear is not worth anything.  Pack cover is not keeping our pack dry either—if not for  the garbage bag we have inside, everything would be wet by now.

When we reached the Pomfret Brook, I really could not believe my eyes.  In front of us was a rushing brook at least knee high in places with a cable stretched across it.  They really expected us to wade across that thing!  We searched for  a better, shallower place to cross, but found none.  The safest thing to do was to hang on the cable and wade across.  After securing our trekking poles to our pack and making sure all our electronics were in a ziplock bag, that’s exactly what we did.  At one point I had trouble finding a level place to put my foot and sunk up to my knees, but we made it across without too much trouble.  I knew there were crossings like  this  in  Maine, but had no idea we would have to use a cable in Vermont.
Honey, you haven't roughed it if you've never done two days like we just did.  I have never been so wet in my entire life!  The only positive I could think of was that we would be in a shelter tonight and not have to pitch our tent in the rain.  Surely, no one else would be crazy enough to be out in this weather, so surely we would have the shelter to ourselves.  We reached Thistle Hill Shelter and before we could change into dry clothes, two men showed up!  Crazy men—what were they doing out here?  They were just out for the long weekend—plans made were plans laid for them.  They would take any opportunity to get out on the hiking trail. 

So we moved everything that we had already hung all over the shelter and made room for them.  They had started in Hanover and hiked south.  They told us what lay in store ahead of us, and we filled them in on the stream crossing ahead of them. 
















Gifford Woods State Park to The Lookout Cabin

Day 25
Thursday, May 25, 2017
Gifford Woods State Park to The Lookout Cabin
14.3 Miles

Janet Abbot picked us up at Dartmouth College parking area and took us to Gifford Woods State Park parking area.  We started hiking at 800 a.m. and finished the day at 6:00 p.m.—10 hours of hiking, which seems to be common for us lately. 

The weather forecast says it will be in the mid 50's daytime and mid 40's at night for 2 days, then mid 60's on Saturday, perfect hiking weather if not for the rain. 

The day started out with Roaring Falls Waterfall early on.  Beautiful spot.  We met up with a fellow that we had met at Lost Pond Shelter and leap-frogged with him most of the day.  We didn’t get his name but he became known to  me as 10-miler, since he told us he was limiting himself to 10 miles a day and trying to get his hiking legs built up to make it to Katahdin.  We left him when he stopped for the day at Stony Brook Shelter to avoid the afternoon rain.

I was disappointed when my feet starting hurting again in the morning after a day and two nights on the new pain-relievers.  After taking the Tylenol at lunchtime though, they stopped hurting and didn’t give me much trouble for  the remainder of the last few days.  Hallelujah! 

It started raining after lunch and again, we were drenched in no time.  We made it to The Lookout, a privately-owned cabin, hoping to be the only ones there.  Billy Goat from Raleigh, NC beat us there and had a fire going in the fireplace.  He had gathered enough wood to last through the evening. We all hung our wet clothes all over the shelter, shared a cup of coffee (he was delighted), had our dinner and went to bed listening to the rain and gusting wind.